Are Fashion Brands Destroying Beijing’s 798?

DVF’s “Journey of a Dress” exhibition written in Chinese characters

The 798 Art District of Beijing has recently carved itself as an avenue for international fashion brands to stamp their mark in the emerging Chinese market. Most notably and recently, Diane von Furstenberg last month entered center stage with an exhibition, “Journey of a Dress” generating considerable press and media. In 2008, Dior also housed an exposition, highlighting the symbiotic and creative relationship between Dior’s signatures looks with those of local Chinese artists. However, recent criticisms have arisen that 798 has been invaded by rampant commercialism; a “creative gentrification” if you will. Examples are littered throughout the precinct, with high-end cafes, postcard tourist stores and stereotypical motifs of China and communism. As one would have it, the past few years  have seen the first settlers of 798 run into tension with Seven Star Group, the company that legally owns the area. Whilst the former sought to find a haven for artists to experiment and forge a new vision, the latter are trying to leverage on 798’s internationally acclaimed reputation. They aim to financially capitalize on that gain. Where exactly do international fashion brands therefore sit along this divide and what role do they play? 

798  originated as a place to facilitate the construction of military equipment for the Germans in WW2. After the war, the place was subsequently vacated, and the Beijing Fine Arts academy decided to set up place. This move was followed suit when several artists decided to trickle in and take stock. 798 was therefore borne out of the intention of developing and nurturing a young fledgling voice. Throughout time, the reputation of Chinese contemporary art skyrocketed, making the precint of 798 synonymous with the highly prized works that art collectors have recently coveted. In this sense, 798 garnered a halo of respect from professional creatives. Its kitschy mix of lofty high-end stores and industrial architecture has become an embodiment coolness. This aura of attraction has, as a result, lead many brands such as Nike, L’Oreal and Paul Smith to form events there. Moreover, the landlords of 798 have welcomed their arrival, as it brings in a considerable amount of revenue. 

 

Dior’s 2008 Exhibition

The different approaches in how brands have made their mark in 798 have lead to varying degrees of success. Dior and Diane von Furstenberg, for example, have attempted to highlight local talent by fusing together different Chinese interpretations with their own respective aesthetics. In these two cases, they seem to make an effort in bringing in new discussions and ideas of how east meets west. But when is the collaboration a form of nurturing and not creative colonization that quashes nascent local talent? When are these galleries, fashion shows and exhibitions, forms of crass shameless promotion veiled under the guise of intellectual and artistic evocation? These arguments are hard to define and extremely subjective, and thus I am hesitant to put forward what may seem like contentious arguments. Needless to say, these dominating voices have in fact repelled the original cohabitants of 798. As a result, these artists now seek refuge and other alternative areas, such as Caochangdi, to continue their work…   

Image source: slamxhype.com, maosuit.com